A New Mexican Fall Lunch with Deborah Madison
October 20, 2009 | Comments Off
For many years, my primary go-to cookbook was Deborah’s tome, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. I still pull it out frequently when I’m trying to find something interesting to do with a little-used vegetable or I want an impressive meatless entree. She has a real talent for coaxing really terrific tastes out of very simple, seasonal fare. I have never been disappointed with a recipe of hers. When I discovered that she had moved from the Bay area, where she opened Greens restaurant and had worked at Chez Panisse, to
Galisteo, New Mexico, I was hopeful that she would be interested in being a part of my culinary tour.
After an introduction from my friend, the culinary goddess and Santa Fe Caterer Marja Martin, Deborah was very enthusiastic about the idea of bringing foodies to Northern New Mexico to enchant them with all the delicious food coming from the region. She created this meal to highlight some of her most favorite October produce and a very special meat grower in Galisteo, Talus Wind. I noticed that their meats were on many very respectable menus, including Amavi and Cafe Pasqual. Everyone who knows food was raving about how good their stuff is. I am hoping to make them a stop on next year’s tour.
Deborah started our afternoon with a tour of her garden, which
was still flourishing even after the first frost. We had Gruet Sparkling
Brut and Shisito peppers as we strolled around her apple trees and the garden and got to know each other a bit. The lunch was served in her sunlit dining room, an elaborate feast that unified classic New Mexican ingredients and flavors with elements from the Middle East and Europe. I’ve listed the menu below to get a sense of what she served. Each course was a delight.
Sweet and Salty New Mexican pecans with red chile
Posole with winter squash and red chile
Slow-roasted spice-covered lamb from Talus Wind Ranch
Vegetable ragout from the farmers market
Smoked Emmer wheat from Ayer’s Creek Farm with rice
A selection of goat cheese from South Mountain Dairy
Salad from Deborah’s garden-lettuce and herbs
Chocolate bark with red chile